Scattered along the Caribbean coast of Panama, the 365 tiny coconut islands of the San Blas archipelago make up one of Central America's most intriguing destinations.
This is paradise as most of us imagine it, with coral reefs, sunken shipwrecks and tropical beaches found in every direction.
Throw some thatched dwellings and powdery white sand in the mix, and what’s not to love?
The region is also home to the Guna, the first indigenous group in Latin America to gain political autonomy. While they have embraced outboard motors and mobile phones, much about this culture remains traditional; unlike in more commercial parts of the Caribbean, visiting the Comarca de Guna Yala will give you a chance to embrace local customs. Planning a trip might require a bit more preparation, but luckily we've come up with a handy guide to help you navigate this fascinating place.
The quirks of island living
The San Blas archipelago consists of community islands and outer islands or resorts. The community islands, closer to the mainland, are densely packed with bamboo huts, livestock and people; they are more likely to have budget lodgings, but the hustle and bustle may not live up to your expectations of a remote tropical paradise. The outer islands are only inhabited by caretakers who stay to watch over coconut groves on a rotating basis, and while the latter make for a more appealing vacation setting, there may be little opportunity to interact with locals or get a handle on the culture.
As you might imagine, the culinary scene in the region is fresh and local, with a heavy slant toward seafood. Meals usually consist of fish and rice, with lobster or octopus occasionally available for a few more dollars. Fruit is imported from the mainland and may be in scarce supply, so it’s alright to bring your own.
Learn about Guna traditions
The Guna people make up one of the largest indigenous groups in the country, and they work hard to protect the Comarca from unwanted westernization. Be mindful of this as you move through the region – take the time to learn about the Guna way of life and interact with the locals. Knowing even a basic greeting (na is hello, thank you is dot nuet) can be helpful in establishing goodwill. The Guna also throw a good party: check out the Nogagope, a traditional dance celebration that takes place on Isla Tigre, or the February 25 celebration of the Guna Revolution of 1925.
Admire the colorful molas, decorative panels women sew onto their blouses, for sale at the local markets; in the Guna culture, having an elaborate one – with tiny stitching, many layers of fabrics and good designs – is a point of pride. As molas have become popular with travelers, they are now often used as decor, framed to put on the wall or sewn onto throw pillows.
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